Saturday, December 27, 2008

Rain, Rain, Rain

This has just been ridiculous! The weather in the Southeast has been socked in for days now. I drove up to Rocktown today to meet up with Joe and I was in a cloud was so thick I couldn't see 30 feet in front of my bumper. I bailed for HP40 to meet up with local developer Lee Payne to try to squeegee up a few slopers. Miraculously, the sun busted out, and the Dixie winds began to blow. By the end of the day we got in some bouldering.

It turns out Lee doesn't even bring a crashpad at HP40 anymore because he basically has the place wired. He has circuits that include problems I definitely wouldn't try without a pad. I tried warming up, but I still can't climb at all with my left hand, and it seems my injury is only getting worse. Last night, I awoke with pain and stiffness in my finger about 4am. F-n Lame!

Anyway, a few boulders finally became dry enough to squeeze and we had some good southern fun. Because of Lee's 'hometeam' ability to hold onto anything in the area, we decided to apply a few "handicaps" or "extra challenges" to his circuits. Here he attempts "Inspect her Gadget" V7 for all the marbles, and works HP40's best least-known problem "Om" V7.


Sunday, December 21, 2008

Pebbles and Pine Trees.

Three years after interviewing Jim Holloway (the first in 25 years), I stand here, behind the lens, in a dream. For me, as a fan of all things rock-climbing, this image is...for lack of better words..."iconic."

Timeless as the stone itself. A coming of ages.

Here is Fred Nicole appreciating the Jim Holloway problem "Slapshot" for the first time in person. A problem put up when he was in his teens. He has just flown halfway around the world for a turn on it. Between himself, and a quiet giant named Jim, stands an unrepeated sequence of moves and the answer to which of these two legends established the world's first V13 boulder problem.

Yes, Slapshot warrants zero stars, is badly glued, and broken to shit. But, to some people it represents something very special, something worth traveling across the world to touch before you die. It is just a pebble in the pines. So, to who ever thinks or says what we do is meaningless, can kiss my ass. I am thankful for a lot this Christmas, but maybe most of all, I am thankful for my friends, pebbles, and pine trees.

Enjoy and happy holidays. Off to "Bama!

Rocklands 2008 cont.

"Caroline" V9/10 is one of The Rockland's all time classics. It is a perfect 20 degree overhang with a line of pinches and crimps up the blank center of the wall. This problem always makes for a cozy little session. Tucked away under a pair of 30 foot boulders, and curiously wrapped by a twisted African tree, the experience is only enhanced by a flat sandy landing, and it's obtainable grade. Fred Nicole put this problem up on one of his first trips to South Africa in the mid 1990s. But he didn't actually find it.

Kinda a funny story: Fred came to Colorado this summer and we had a couple fun sessions together up in the Flatirons and in Eldo. A friend of his drives up from Texas to join us one day. Her name is Caroline. Later that day, we seriously just happened upon a conversation about this particular climb. So I set off yapping about how cool it is, and explaining how similar one of the holds we are climbing on is to the one on Caroline.

She waits until I give her an entire spray down on the problem, then she quietly says " Oh, that problem? That one is named after me." Fred laughs.

The story goes, she found the boulder on the first day they discovered the "Roadside Sector", and given it's little hiding place, she decided she would keep it secret from Fred. "Just for a bit while he worked on other problems in the sector", she recalled. Finally, after a few days of effort, she gave in to Fred because she was "just dying to see it go." He named the problem Caroline.

Below: Laura Griffiths attempting Caroline.

One for the cause

I had a fun shoot in Longmont, CO on Saturday. Angelo Ambrosia is a glass artist, who, along with other local glassblowers, are hand blowing recycled glass bottles into drinking glasses. Some bottles have a pyrex-paint for their labels (Stone IPA, Red Stripe, etc) which does not fade or melt when heated to the extreme temperatures needed to shape the bottle. This is a super cool way to make functional art in a green eco-friendly fashion, and I was happy to donate my time to help raise awareness of this super cool project. You should be able to purchase these glasses around town soon, and I will post more info when it becomes available. Word.

Below: Angelo hand blowing a glass owl


Friday, December 19, 2008

Serving Optics

Jonathan Siegrist sticks the crux move on the hard V9 variation to "The Deluxe Festival of Flesh" aka "Fleshfest" V10 at the Satellite Boulders, Flatirons, Colorado. This slight variant is probably worth noting as such do to the absolutely sick sequence, just left, which "stays true" to the arete feature. However, this particular line takes a rad ladder of crimps from the start before moving back left to finish. Very Worthy!

This has always proved a hard line to shoot, and I've always struggled with lighting, angle, and composition. Here, I employed 3 flashes to softly light up the feature from all sides, while I balanced carefully on a dead tree branch above the talus.

Although not the tallest problem in The Rockies, it is generally regarded as, and demands the respect of, a highball due to its level of commitment, and uneven landing. So, we included it in "Rocky Mountain Highball" where you'll see Daniel Woods battle with the original sequence in 5 degree weather, culminating with a snowy and iced over top-out. Yowzah!

tick..tock...

Well, the weather here in Boulder has officially crapped out. In with da freeze, out like da breeze! I'll be heading to 'Bama for a week in a few days, and I'll for sure be gettin' my Allman Brothers on. I'm meeting up with Joe & Colette for some routes, and gettin' down with Lee Payne for some sloper sqeezin.' There is no place like home. So psyched!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Hueco Tanks 2008

Here is a spin off shot from a week spent with Kevin Jorgeson down in Hueco Tanks, TX last December. We were working on a few media projects and basically looking for something new, you know, something maybe a little un-traditional.

This was an open project Robb Rice had been eying for a few years and was proving too dangerous for other climbers he had shown it to. Here Kev makes the first ascent of "Stick or Stones" V8 West Mountain. Some will even argue that it is the best boulder problem for the grade in the entire park.

Those who argue against this claim, well, haven't seen it.

Monday, December 15, 2008

ZA 2008 cont.

Organic athlete, Daniel Woods, plays a little 'peek-a-boo' with the final perfect sloper on Klem Loskot's "I Believe I can Fly" V10 "Plateau Sector."

Friday, December 12, 2008

Vogue: the story behind an image.


There is always a good story behind a good image. The photo can either hide the story or it can offer a translucence to it. I guess you never know for sure unless you were actually there, holding the camera, or holding on.

Jonathan Siegrist tells the story behind a recent image of mine:

When I asked George Squibb about his inspiration to name 'Vogue' he simply replied, "I guess I just really liked the Madonna song at the time."

This striking route on the Industrial Wall in Boulder was bolted back in 1991, but it was not until 8 years later that it saw its first ascent by Tommy Caldwell, who warmed up for the bitter cold send by an over-sized bonfire at the base of the cliff. The climb was soon repeated by hard-man Justin Sjong after an enduring 50 plus efforts. Adam Stack claimed the third ascent in 2001 and despite a lot of serious effort by capable climbers it had not been done since.

So why no fourth ascent? Simply because 'Vogue' is a sick hard rock climb. The defining feature of the climb is a long, overhanging refrigerator panel that is mostly hold-less. Compression climbing is essential and crimps or relieving positive holds are nonexistent. The upper section involves a giant stem while negotiating desperate stab moves between small pitches and a featureless dull arete. The short climber’s crux comes in the form of a heart-breaker, dead-point, arm-stretching reach for the final hold just a few easy moves below the chains...

to read the rest, please visit Arcteryx.com

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

espantoso.

I pulled over the car and caught the full moon rising through an old elk cage and over a meadow brook. Somewhere outside Fairplay. I remember I was drinking Tecate...

ZA 2008 cont. 6.23.08 - Elapsed. An extinct occasion.

Moments in time are like artists. Once they die, their work becomes immortal, allusive, and extraordinary. Finding time to revisit old photo folders ("old" can be only a few days once stuff gets put onto dusty hard drives) is something that gets tougher and less pragmatic with passing days. But, when givin' the chance (1:00 am or later) to go through them, I can see these fleeing moments like a Monet. Without passing them on, they just get all dusty up in the attic, ya know?


6.23.08_Hanging out with Tony Lamiche this summer in South Africa was a riot! Tony was crushing about every problem in the Rocklands and finding new projects daily when he, out of boredom, tried a steep move and tweaked his knee, badly. Noah Kaufman bought him a pellet gun and countless ammo to help cure his boredom around the house, which he did every day when we returned. Don't cross the French (especially the injured) or you'll have red welts for days!


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Tony couldn't even walk with out assistance for days until he saw The "Sky Project." With time wearing thin on his trip, Tony crutched out for two nights as the temps got prime to have himself a crack at unlocking the massive moves. Notice the crutches.


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As the night grew later, and Tony got closer, his pants came off. (Of course, as to not restrict forward progression towards the holds.) Here is a short time lapse image of Tony, in his undies with headlamp, trying the big crux move. The boulder is lit by the support of 6 head-lamped onlookers. To no avail, on this particular evening, the project was left for another's bid.

When Daniel Woods arrived a month later, "Sky" was opened at 8B+/V14.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Are you dropping by?

If you are, please leave a comment here. I like to know what people think, or if they even care about whatever the hell it is that I am ever trying to say? I like to think the hits I get are from mom, but she assures me it is only half of them. If you do find yourself here, please say 'hi'. I'd like to know if a little inspiration came your way. Thanks for visiting! Cheers -Andy

A Chicken and a Forty

is all Eric Decaria needed when he established this new Colorado classic V7 highball last year at Pierson Park. P.P. is a new, albeit very small, granite area near Allenspark, CO and also home to Kevin Jorgeson's "Fish out of Water" V12 (click the link above to see a photo of Kev on the problem, a video still can also be found 4 down from the left here)

This particular photo of TJ Burchfield sending Chicken and a 40 is now available as a download-able screen saver over at Climbing.com. It is almost without saying that Chicken and a 40 will indeed be brought to you in RMH. It is to note that more than three quarters of the problems in the film have never before been pictured, filmed, or even seen by other climbers in most cases. (Obviously this can no longer be one of them.) Ahhh, Colorado, still the voluptuous virgin.

nice one.

I just got a call from the crew in Hueco, Lynn Hill just sent "Chablanke" V11/12. Lynn will be 48 in less than a month. Sick. Pick up the next issue of Urban Climber Magazine #27 to read more about Lynn and her life after climbing for 30 years. Lynn and I worked hard on this one, and they photos show. Anyway, Scott Neel was there with the camera, and I can't wait to see the footage.

Lynn is a big part of Rocky Mountain Highball, where which she tackles some of the biggest baddest knee knockin' boulder problems in the state. Below is a production photo of Lynn sending in the film, coming early 2009...

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Serving optics...

of the traditional flavor. Here, Ethan Pringle sets up for the crux dyno on "Iron Monkey" 5.14 in Eldorado Canyon at dark. He made the second ascent a few days later. It was good to have Ethan in town for a few weeks, he is a great kid with an infectious, almost nonchalant, attitude towards rock climbing. What also stands out to me, is his passion and caring of other people. Super cool dude.

I wonder what would happen if he really tried hard at something?

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

ZA 2008 cont.

There is no doubt that this is the very first V14 flash in the history of our sport. The only objects in question here are: the ethics and techniques of my spotters, Noah Kaufman M.D., and Cooper Roberts. This, I could not help, as I was so focused on making history. Honestly, I didn't even feel it. If Beth Rodden says its good, it's good.

ZA 2008 cont...

This is easily the worst pinch I have ever seen. You gotta go big off it too. I'll tell ya, Fred Nicole is one badass mutha pullin' his weight around on this hold! Here, Daniel Woods trys again for the unrepeated "Monkey Wedding" V15, Roadside Sector, Rocklands. (His tenth day on the problem.)

Lately...

I've been hanging around scrubbing boulders with friends deeper into the woods of our beloved Flatirons, Colorado. We have been shown some cool stuff and are discovering much more. After cleaning a nice v10-ish compression arete, I pulled on the starting 2 finger pocket and then steeped off with pain in my left ring finger. After a week or so it seems the injury may be severe, as I still cannot pull into a crimp position and dead hang on a hang board. Weird? The injury seems to be isolated between the middle and upper joints of the finger. Open handed crimping seems to be fine, but as soon as I wrap, it's over. Any thoughts here would be much appreciated.

Monday, December 1, 2008

serving optics

Chris Shulte hangs on tight to the dramatic granite arch that is "The Fragilator" V8 Boulder, CO. Wait..this is in Boulder?