Wednesday, March 24, 2010

New Work - End of Winter 2010

I've been really busy over the last month and that is always a good thing! Just this week, I finally upgraded and bought a new 15" Matte Screen MacBook Pro (2.66Hz 320g 7200rpm.) SICK! I am so stoked. Things are moving a little faster on the editing end now. Black Diamond Equipment, who have one of the nicest designed websites around, recently purchased some banner images for the site.

Additionally, an image I shot of team athlete, Paige Claassen, was picked up for a full back cover ad in the new Red River Gorge (3rd edition) Guidebook. Very cool!

I also got creative with Jonathan Siegrist (who hit me over 70 times in the head with a rope) to get the new cover image of the Urban Climber Gear Guide. This is my 5th cover at UC, and I loved working in the studio directly with the art director, Andy Outis, to get this specific image.

Please check out the Climbing Magazine Annual Gear Guide as well for several unique 'gear related' images, including this one below that I really like of Heidi Wirtz plugging in a nut in Eldorado Canyon. Running in the the issue is also a Perspective portrait of possum-fur filled mountaineering boots from the first ascent of Mount Everest, a rad shot of Matt Wilder's new FA in Hueco Tanks "Bandersnatch", and many more.

April 1st is the launch day for Eric Horst's new "Maximum Training for Climbing" Book. I was stoked to provide the cover and advertising image for the book. Below is an ad currently running in Deadpoint Magazine.

Congrats to Daniel Woods for his new partnership with Nicros Climbing. Very cool. Nicros and I have teamed up for a few years of imagery to come. Check out this cool print ad they are running with an image I shot of Daniel Woods on the first ascent of "Desperanza" V15.
I recently was a guest blogger on PrAna's website. I shot and wrote a small piece on Boulder's ABC Youth Team in Hueco Tanks and the future of climbing. PrAna has been a big supporter, and client of mine, for many years now. I truly love what they make and what they stand for. Check out post here.

Finally, go over and check out UrbanClimberMag.com sometime, the site is chalk full of interesting features, galleries, and columns that run online after the mag goes to print. I enjoy seeing my images and articles running there for people to enjoy past a shelf life. Can't beat free...

Be Good - Andy

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Darrell Scott. The Portraits.

In yesterday's post below I mentioned that I would be shooting the portrait of one of the most important, if not the most important, person in the world to me. I thought once last year if i had two portraits to shoot before i die, it would be of Barack Obama and Darrell Scott. Okay, obsession aside, I got that chance yesterday. I noticed on his website, over my morning coffee, that Darrell was dropping into the Boulder Theater last evening for a quick E-Town performance. It was unlisted on the marquee and elsewhere for that matter. It seemed like a great time to knock one off the ol' bucket list.

How do you approach this kind of thing I asked myself? Typically, I get around, and do a lot of what I want to do, based on kindness and honesty. I don't care much for processes or protocols, usually fly by the seat of my pants, and dream bigger than most. I will always try, with all my heart, to do or get something that I love. If it seems impossible, 99% of people aren't gonna try, and that leaves a small crack in the door with a slim margin for error. I'll take that bet, and I am comfortable losing it.

Anyway, it was cake. I sent an email to his manager and booking agent, explained myself, who I was, and what I wanted to do. I linked the portrait page on my website and kept the fan in me out of it. I was also quick to mention that I only needed 10 minutes, and would be shooting within a block of the boulder theater. I also suggested that after his sound check would be a convenient time. I offered Darrell use of the photos we get for his marketing applications. This can be frowned upon by some photographers, however, the photo opp is more important to me than the money. And secondly, I could never charge Darrell for my time or art, (even though he charges for his usually, I find the influence much different) There are many other reasons that I won't go into, and you can probably chalk on of them up to - not knowing what the protocol actually is for this kind of artist portrait scenario? (See paragraph above: My care for protocols.) Anyway, the manager forwarded the email to Darrell and he accepted.

I got to the alley, behind the theater, an hour early and met my friend Caine Delacy, who helped stand in for the test shots, and gave advice and opinions on my ideas. Thanks Caine! I wanted 3 different photos from Darrell in the end, so i wanted to have them all wired when he got out there. I duct taped a sheet of white paper on the rotten brick wall for one, cleared the alley for the second, and brought a couple props for the third. (Never got the third.)

When Darrell popped out of the back entrance to the alley, I was ready. He said that he was going to perform that evening with a street musician who hangs out on pearl street, an Irish harp player, and they needed to run through the songs together. (The first time Darrell asked the harp player to play a song with him that evening at The Boulder Theater, he said, "No." Darrell said, "How about a hundred dollar bill?", and then he agreed)

So, Darrell suggested I shoot the warm-up jam session. Since I had a chair I brought with me, I plopped down the chair right where I wanted them, set up some lights after they started playing, and shot from the hip. It was a very different energy shooting to the music of this impromptu session. Fuck the studio, I kept thinking, this is so much more real! After they finished, Darrell sat down in front of the white paper for me and I got in tight for the black and white look I really wanted.

I waited till farewells to let him know that I was a big fan and had followed his music for over a decade. We shot the shit a bit, and then, he walked back in the unmarked black door in the rotten brick wall he came out of.




Cool side note: Notice in the image immediately above, that the harp player is playing one handed. Darrell told me later, that in a forgotten musical tradition in Ireland, as the set sets, the player plays one handed and leaves his other for a lady, friend, or family. It is real moments like these that i find true beauty in. Thanks for following! Later - A

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Darrell Scott

Today I get to shoot the portrait of my biggest influence and personal hero, Darrell Scott. In my opinion (and my others) Songwriter of the Year, and Grammy Award Winner, Scott, is the most important American folk musician of the last 3 generations. Being nervous right now is an understatement. This man changed my life with his music when I was 18. He plays E-town at The Boulder Theater tonight. Will post the shots tomorrow...
Please watch these and listen to those pipes!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Making a better bouldering image.

I recently posted a photo from my Hueco Tanks trip here on the blog, and with much surprise to me, I received some email inquires regarding the shot. "Did you photoshop the sky? What lens is that? Where was the flash?" Well, I figured this could be a cool opportunity to share some of the technical details and thought processes that go into a shot; the kind of stuff I normally don't do here on the blog.

Here's the run down for that particular hour.

I typically warm up with everyone, do 5-10 easy problems, stretch out, shoot the shit. I generally think it is best to not shoot during warm-ups because of several reasons.
A: The climbers are only warming up and probably in a short routine that is best not interrupted or interfered with
B: It shows your not trigger happy paparazzi.
C: It shows you have your own agenda: that you're out to enjoy the day as well, and not following them around like a puppy.
D: If you do shoot the rest of day, it never hurts to scratch the skin a little bit!

So, after warming up in the Maze, GP Salvo headed over to try the moves on Nagual, V13. I usually set back and shoot wide at first. If a climber is "working" the moves on a project they haven't sent, it is best to not jump in there immediately for close ups. Climbers can be a little self conscious about being published on a climb they can only do a few moves on (at the moment). Additionally, it can be super annoying to jump in there right away, giving direction, moving ground clutter, etc.

Practice the shot you have in mind, and have a rock solid idea of what you'll need from the climber to get it. So, if you get a cooperative moment of their time, preferably at the end of the session, you'll nail it. Then chill, be patient, help spot, walk away, whatever. Just don't stand there, bobbing up and down like a child in line for the bathroom, quietly signaling "the end-all" if you don't get the shot right then. This is the hardest part, trust me. You're a loaded gun, cool, but be patient, the sun's not going down just yet.

Below is a test frame I fired while GP was working the upper moves of the problem. He likely didn't even know I was there. Here are the notes I made in my head based on the image...

- The Contrast between the blown out rock and the dark shady overhang is way too much.
- The Black shirt GP is wearing isn't working out.
- The spotter is a little close, distracting, and not helping to show the problem's height.
- The sky is a little blown out. Bummer cause there are some nice blues in there.
- I like the angle, but the boulder is a bit cut off at the bottom. Something's not balanced.
- I dig the body position. A rose move on a V13 is pretty cool. The cross through may cover his face though when it counts. Maybe low percentage.

I know right away I can correct the technical issues such as: composition, exposure, contrast balance, lighting, etc. (Experience learned the f-n hard way! Take a course, read a manual, just don't take three years to learn what the M or the A settings on your camera actually do.) However, I will have to ask the spotter to step back and also see if GP is cool with that. I'll have to him to do the "rose move" again, as well as change his shirt. (I've barely known GP for 10 minutes BTW)

So before I drop all this, I show him the test shot, once he takes off his shoes for a rest, and explain how I like it, but would change it. I reassure him how dope it would be. (Confidence and enthusiasm go a long way.) I ask him, once he is done his session on the boulder, if I could have his cooperation to make the photo I have in mind. It may be best in some cases (100% true in this case) to speak of making a beautiful image of Nagual and Hueco Tanks: something artsy and agreeable. We are not shooting GP pretending to send a V13 here. We are setting up a shot to make this classic Fred Nicole problem look sick and unique. This takes out GP's role as a "Sick Crimper Cranker" and relieves him to a smaller role in the landscape. (Some people like that role, I could tell in 10 minutes that GP was not one of them.) I will also share the test photo with the spotter and explain (and hopefully have him agree) that he isn't helping the image by standing there with his hands up.

My advice is to not just ask a spotter to "get out of the frame." Spotters sometimes like to be in the shot. I mean, honestly, what's not cool about being in a magazine spotting someone on a sick V13? Explain yourself, make fun of yourself, make it light-hearted, and try to involve them elsewhere on the moment. If they seem keen - "Would you mind holding a flash?"

Yeah, it's gonna be a pose down shot, but the look I'm going for this go'round is gonna be hard to get via "nitty gritty doc-journalism." Accept it.

So, after GP is done on the boulder and about ready to split, he asks if I still want to try to get the shot. (I'm not standing there looking at my watch or pressuring him to do this) I say, "Hell yeah man, I'm ready when you are."

The spotter takes his position behind the bush with my flash (with some direction), and I toss my shirt to GP. He poses the rose move, I crack off a frame, and it's done. "Damn, that was painless" they usually say. I run right over to share the image with both the climber and "the spotter". Moral is high and I just directed the image to exactly how I wanted it. The conversation usually leads into: "What else can we shoot today?"

Below is the final image and adjustments I made to the test frame.

- I cranked my Aperture to f8 to over-power the bright sky and the harsh sun hitting the boulders and ground. Thus, leaving myself a dramatic, slightly under-exposed canvas in which to pop some light onto the underbelly of the boulder.
- The Black shirt GP was wearing was switched for my lime green one. (Wore it just for this reason.)
- The spotter is gone from the frame, but playing a role by holding a single radio- fired SB800 speed-light behind the bush. I had to crank it to half power to compensate for the loss of light my F-stop choice was gonna bring in. I almost always shoot "profile" when using one flash, hard body shadows on the rock are a little "hoopty."
- I stepped back a few feet in order to rest the entire boulder in frame comfortably. I used a 10.5mm 2.8 Fisheye Lens and centered everything on a horizontal plane as to not "warp or fisheye" the edges of the frame too much.
- I stuck with the body position I liked, and had the spotter aim the flash through the climber's arms to try to light his face.

That's how it happened with a pinch of my 2 cents. And, don't take my job because I love it dearly. Cheers - A

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Core.


Chuck Fryberger just released the official trailer to his new film, Core. It truly looks amazing. I am honored not only to have played a small role in the film's production, but to also be a featured character in the film. I was asked add some original guitar tracks to the film as well. Pretty sick.

CORE Official Trailer from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.


CORE goes to the heart of climbing. Join an international cast of the sport's most dedicated athletes as they stick it when it matters most. Shot in 35mm Ultra High Definition, get ready to see every detail of some of the nastiest pieces of rock ever climbed.

A close examination of each character offers perspective beyond just their achievements on the stone. From Helsinki to Hueco, Africa to Italy, the enclosed forests of Tuscany to the vast open space of the American West, this film is a study in the landscapes and lifestyles that define our sport.

Be there, in the moment, as a 5.14 traditional route gets its first ascent. See the mind-bending footage from Livin Large, Nalle Hukkataival's monster 8C. Watch as Fred Nicole polishes off his multi-year project in Switzerland – his hardest ever. All these achievements and more are brought to you here in Chuck Fryberger's followup to the hit bouldering flick PURE. These are the moments and the athletes that define our sport, documented here with a unique style that invites the viewer to be part of the experience.

Featured Athletes:
Nalle Hukkataival
Matt Wilder
Fred Nicole
Kilian Fischhuber
Kevin Jorgeson
BJ Tilden
Lucas Preti
Cody Roth
Michele Caminati
Jamie Emerson
Sarah and Steph Marvez
Berni Fiedler
Myself
And Many More.

On Location in:
Lander, Wyoming
Colorado, USA
Hueco Tanks, USA
Helsinki Finland
Switzerland
Tuscany, Italy
Rocklands, South Africa

The World Premiere is at The Historic Boulder Theater on April 7th. See you there!